Replacing a cracked or sunken driveway
We break out the old slab, haul it off and rework the base underneath it, because new concrete poured over the same soft ground usually cracks and sinks the same way.
If your driveway is cracked, sinking or holding water, we'll pour a new slab on a packed base, sized for what you park.

Concrete driveway building in Carlsbad, CA means taking out the old surface if there is one, digging out and packing a firm base, then forming, pouring and finishing a new slab that's thick enough and reinforced for the vehicles you park on it.
The price mostly comes down to the size of the driveway, how thick the slab has to be, how much steel goes inside it and whether an old driveway has to be broken out and hauled away first. A stamped or colored finish adds to it, and so does any grading to change where the water runs.
The schedule turns on those same things, plus whether the city needs a permit and an inspection, and the curing wait before you can park on it again. I come out, measure and write up an estimate, so you see your own figure in writing before we start.
I come out, look at the driveway with you and write the estimate myself, then run our own crew on site, so the person who priced your job is there when it's poured.
We're licensed and insured. The state has a license class for concrete contractors covering forming, pouring and finishing flat concrete, so it's fair to ask anyone who bids your driveway about it.
Concrete is hard to undo once it sets, so I'd rather spend an extra hour planning the slope and the base with you than rush a pour and live with the mistake.
I start by asking what you park there, from a small car to a work truck or RV, because that sets how thick we pour the slab and what steel goes in it. I also tell you up front whether taking out the old driveway is part of the price, so you're not guessing about it once the tear-out starts.
Most driveways that crack or sink weren't let down by the concrete. The subgrade, the dirt the slab sits on, was raked smooth instead of dug out and packed, so it settled and took the slab with it. We dig out, pack a firm base and set the forms so the slab slopes away from the house and the water runs where we planned. The base is buried on day one and it's the first thing people want to cut from a budget, but I won't skimp on it, because a nice surface on a soft base cracks just the same.
We plan pours for the cooler part of the day, since midday heat can leave a weak, dusty top later, and we give it a broom finish, a light texture that gives tires and shoes some grip. Then we cut control joints on time, shallow grooves that give the slab a straight, planned place to crack, because late or skipped joints let cracks pick their own path across the middle. If you want more than a plain finish, stamped concrete can make the driveway look like brick, stone or pavers, and color or stain can match it to the house. It's also often worth pouring a concrete patio out back while our crew is already set up.
We break out the old slab, haul it off and rework the base underneath it, because new concrete poured over the same soft ground usually cracks and sinks the same way.
If something heavy lives on your driveway, we plan a thicker slab and heavier steel inside it, so the concrete carries the weight instead of breaking up under the tires.
When you need room for one more car, we tie new concrete into the existing drive so it sits level with the old slab and sheds water the same direction.
On a new garage or addition, we set the driveway to meet the garage floor and the street at the right heights, so cars roll in and out without a bump or a dip.
Send the form and we'll reply within one business day to set a time for me to come out. The estimate is free, done on site and put in writing, with no obligation to go ahead.
A rough length and width, or just how many cars it holds, is plenty for the form, since I'll measure it properly when I come out and see the site.
Tell us if a work truck, RV or trailer uses the driveway, because heavier vehicles call for a thicker slab and more steel, and that changes the estimate.
Let us know if there's an old driveway or asphalt to remove, because breaking it out and hauling it away is real work, and I'll tell you plainly whether it's in the price.
These photos show broom, stamped and colored finishes and a few layouts, ideas to talk through when we look at your driveway together.
Here are the questions people ask me most when we're standing in the driveway, from cost per square foot to when you can park again.
A 2024 San Diego cost guide puts a concrete driveway at about $6 to $12 per square foot for un-reinforced concrete, not counting removal of an old driveway. A thicker slab, rebar, tear-out and a stamped or colored finish all add to that. I'll measure yours and give you a written estimate with your own figure.
The same San Diego cost guide calls four to five inches standard for everyday cars and says owners with trucks or RVs may want a six to eight inch slab. It adds that wire mesh is common for standard vehicles, while rebar, heavier steel bars set in the concrete, may suit heavy vehicles or lots of traffic. That's why I ask what you park first.
Plan on a week or so after the pour before the slab is cured enough to drive on, on top of the few days the installation usually takes. Curing is the concrete slowly hardening and gaining strength, so a car on it too soon can mark or crack it. Line up street or neighbor parking for both stages.
Concrete can last 50 years or longer, while an asphalt driveway is old at 20, so concrete is the longer-lived choice if you plan to stay. To stretch that life and keep it looking good, clean it regularly like any surface and seal it on a regular schedule. The base under it matters as much as the upkeep.
That depends on what the job touches, and the city is the place to ask. The city issues grading, right-of-way and haul route permits and inspects that work. If your lot may be in the Coastal Zone or the Village and Barrio area, check that with the city first. If a permit is needed, we file it, book the inspections and keep you posted.
Call (442) 216-7701 any day of the week, into the evening, or send the form, and I'll come look at the driveway with you.